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Lee grew up in the Lower East Side and his mother, Ionia Dunn-Lee, was a fashion editor at Essence during the late ‘70s and early ‘80s while Susan Taylor was the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Lee would travel with his mother to places like Paris for Fashion Week or Senegal for photo shoots. Although he was surrounded by fashion, he envisioned himself being a teacher until he learned their salaries and decided to go to school for accounting and French. Through his mother he landed an internship at Essence in its accounting department where he quickly realized this wasn’t the path for him.
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R&B singers, in diapers at her peak, now interpolate her style. And drag queens, in Brooklyn and beyond, are paying tribute. At least in conversation with Dèvo Monique and other fans, Aaliyah never left.
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It was, I’m doing this for me and my people. That’s why I think it will always be relevant. He thought getting back into the swing of things would distract him from grief, so he took a job styling Christina Milian for the “Get Away” music video with Ja Rule, which was shot in Paris. But he quickly realized he wasn’t ready to style again. “As soon as we started shooting by the Eiffel Tower and after getting her dressed and trying things on and being in the trailer, I just kind of broke down.
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I think the way that Aaliyah was written into that part of the narrative was kind of this teenager with raging hormones. There was never any talk of how she was groomed or tricked. There’s an overall lack of protection of young Black girls. It’s how all the articles and the media presented the whole situation like it was Aaliyah’s dirty little secret and not R. When you take all that information into account and then you read all the legal documents, and you really get a full picture of what happened, including how Aaliyah was blackballed after it and R. Kelly wasn’t, it just changes the entire narrative from [how you understood it as] a young fan reading in Vibe magazine about this marriage certificate between the Pied Piper of R&B and the Princess of R&B.
She was growing up, even though she had been treated like an adult for much of her childhood. Aaliyah was rarely granted the opportunity to display that kind of innocence – she was branded as "mature" out the gate. From the beginning of her career, the dichotomy between her actual and perceived age was integral to her image. More difficult, at least for me as both a fan and critic, is to reconcile that early part of her career with the rest of her body of work.
“I thought the yellow was perfect for her,” he says. “It stood out more than any of the other colors.” Though there were multiple dresses for her to choose from, Aaliyah immediately gravitated toward Lee’s favorite and ended up wearing it. Like many of her style choices, that wasn’t the last time it was seen the world over and met with fanfare.
Hype [Williams] said, “We’re doing this water scene and the look needs to have a lot of fabric so it can seem like she’s floating.” And I knew Norma Kamali, because she had been a friend of my mom since I was a kid. Because to be perfectly honest with you, Norma Kamali jumped off streetwear way before anybody else did. In the ‘70s she was doing sweatsuits on the catwalk and puff coats.
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I remember always liking it growing up because little brown kids like sweatsuits and stuff like that. So I got the Norma Kamali swimsuit and then I just went to get some fabric to elongate it. People talk about these red Gucci frames a lot. So I would always collect stuff that I thought would age well. And those to me will look good forever.
I saw a clip of her speaking to Joan Rivers and she said something like, “Oh, this is just off the rack.” Can you talk about that look? I really wanted everyone to focus on her. I didn’t want the wardrobe or the fashion to outshine her, even though that’s what most celebrities do. We like to keep her understated with everything so people could see how pretty she is and she felt approachable.
Whenever you see Aaliyah wearing a big oversized men’s jacket or coat, they were always mine. I did reach out to the family for permission. It’s a strange legal situation involving the estate of Aaliyah, and I learned the complexities of this after Prodigy passed away, because you have the human and then you have the personality, the artist, the image.
We also can’t gloss over the fact that she made streetwear and oversized clothing cool in an era when skin-tight was everything. (Veronica Lake was a frequent reference point for critics describing her look and mysterious aura.) The public pretty much accepted and played along with it. When that's the public's first impression of you in this business, there's ostensibly no going back. Aaliyah is known for this baggy bottom silhouette with a smaller top.
And the often-copied look Aaliyah wore to the MTV Video Music Awards in 2000—the yellow tiger print dress with feather trimming—was made by Roberto Cavalli. They all worked together to produce Aaliyah’s timeless yet innovative looks. Foreman expanded on her signature side swoop bang with soft waves, curls, and ombre-dyed ends. And Lee elevated Aaliyah’s tomboy aesthetic by creating custom pieces and utilizing designer items, mixing street with luxury long before it was commonplace for women in the mainstream.
The singer layered it over straight-leg pants with flat sandals to balance the glamorous feel. This is a great example of how to pull off wearing a dress over pants without it feeling too bulky or mismatched. BET documented the making of “Rock the Boat” in the Bahamas for its Access Granted series not knowing this would be footage of Aaliyah’s last days. There’s a scene when she and her glam squad, which included Lee, Foreman, and makeup artist Chris Maldonado, are enjoying some off-time by the pool, laughing with Aaliyah as she showed off her yellow bikini and tie-dye sarong. He remembers learning the news while riding around on his scooter and thinking it was a joke.
Throughout her career, Aaliyah made the bandana one of her favorite accessories, worn as a statement piece. A must-have in her wardrobe incorporated into the make-up collection unveiled by M.A.C. to pay tribute to her. Her white outfit, worn just a few months before her death. As one of the first personalities to propel the American brand Tommy Hilfiger to the forefront of the fashion (and streetwear) scene, Aaliyah made this neon look one of her signature outfits. This silhouette, which was worn for one of her concerts in Inglewood in California, brought together all the aesthetic rules of 1990s hip-hop culture. Can you talk about what she wore in the water scene for “Rock The Boat”?
A Brooklyn native born Aaliyah Dana Haughton in 1979, the singer was raised in Detroit and quickly rose to prominence following the release of her debut album, Age Ain’t Nothing but a Number, in 1994. Her sound was unlike anything the world had ever heard—smooth, pitch-perfect vocals layered over futuristic hip-hop and R&B beats—and was matched with an innate talent for dance, incorporated into her cinematic music videos. Expanding the range of her career, she started to establish herself as an actress, starring alongside Jet Li in the 2000 action film Romeo Must Die and playing the lead in Queen of the Damned, released posthumously in 2002.
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